Pernambuco's Fish Roe Pirão

Natal

With an unbelievable energy and agility for his 92 years, Seu Pernambuco works daily at Canto do Mangue, for six decades, doing what he loves most in life: cooking and serving his customers. And he loves to say that he wouldn’t trade his routine near the beach for anything in the world. For over half a century, he has been selling fried fish in front of the Mercado do Peixe. It would be just another kiosk like so many others on Brazilian beaches, but it’s not. Because Seu Pernambuco offers pirão de ovas, a recipe he learned as a child from his grandmother – a woman from Pernambuco, of course. The preparation is laborious: fish roe breaded and fried in palm oil, beaten and mixed with coconut milk seasoned with garlic, bell pepper, black pepper, cilantro, annatto… Everything is then cooked with flour, thickened to reach the consistency of pirão. And that’s just a side dish! It’s a lot of work, but he loves it and always repeats, “Life is very good.”

Where is it?

Canto do Mangue – Praça Eng. José Gonçalves, 21 – Ribeira

Contact

Phone: (84) 98713-7691

Photos: Reynaldo Zangrandi / Text: Ines Garçoni