In the most Italian city in Brazil, it’s hard to find the most typical sweet from Sicily, cannoli (plural: cannoli), a tube-shaped pastry filled with ricotta cheese and complemented with candied fruits, chocolate, and pistachios. Luís was one of the first, and perhaps still the only one, to sell this delicacy on the streets of São Paulo – but besides offering the original version, he created another 30 different flavors. As a great-grandson of Italians, he sought inspiration in family recipes to make his version of the pastry. “The dough can’t be too thick, to preserve its delicacy,” he teaches. All the fillings, such as jams, creams, and preserves, are handmade by him. Originating hundreds of years ago, the tube-shaped dessert shares its name with the water pipes of Palermo, the capital of Sicily, and today, every corner of Italy has its own version. At Luís’ stand, you can try some of them. “It’s several flavors in one sweet,” he proudly declares.