Varenike by Russians

São Paulo

Russians are not only known for vodka, Dostoevsky’s books, and ballet shows. Varenikes (pronounced varênikes), typical boiled pastries filled with potatoes, are another important source of joy in Yuri Gagarin’s land. Raissa and her mother, Olga, can attest to that. In their family home, whose patriarchs came from Ukraine and Belarus shortly after World War II, the varenikes are still made exactly as their ancestors did over 100 years ago: with relatives gathered in the kitchen, speaking in their native language, in a long and laborious ritual that unites them while celebrating their original culture. The dough made of flour, water, oil, salt, and eggs is kneaded with care and respect for tradition. “It’s an alchemy, so I always try to do it with a good feeling. I don’t like hearing bad news; this is a magical moment,” says Olga. On the streets, wearing her apron with the word “Russkaia” (Russian) written on it, Raissa distributes smiles and delicate varenikes sprinkled with golden onions (which take three hours to caramelize) and butter, filled with meat, potato with onion, or shiitake with potato. Simple, boiled in water, these little pastries would make Dostoevsky rise from the grave.

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Photos: Neto de Oliveira /Text: Ines Garçoni