“I have lived through history. I have actively participated in it since Getúlio Vargas’ suicide,” calculates Ari Gonçalves, 76 years old, born in Campos (RJ), “but a carioca at heart since I was fifteen when I moved to Rio.” While serving soybean kibbeh stuffed at Praia do Pepê, in Barra da Tijuca, he narrates the deeds that led him to spend nine days in the Ilha Grande prison. Ari makes a point of emphasizing, “I wasn’t a subversive. I was a Brizola supporter,” he says, at the same time, putting the finishing touch on his work of art, placing a mint leaf on his sculpture. Marked by harsh moments, Seu Ari’s trajectory contrasts with the soft texture of his kibbeh and his delicate manners of speaking and working. Among the most requested, the fried onion one is the champion, followed by polenguinho and eggplant. The green fillings vary depending on what he finds in the market: watercress, arugula, broccoli, spinach, mustard leaves, and more. Before getting their fingers dirty, it’s beautiful to see how Seu Ari takes care when serving. He wraps the kibbeh in a piece of Arabic bread to facilitate tasting; then, he opens it with a knife and adds other ingredients in the middle. If someone asks for it “complete,” he pinches pepper, mint, green tomato, leek, fried garlic with cashews, garlic sauce, soy sauce, and olive oil.