Raphael’s HareburguerRio de Janeiro It may not seem like it, but Raphael Marques’ “hareburger” is “the conjunction of the entire universe. It is the representation or the very material existence, on a smaller scale, of the best of the farthest galaxies.” The boy born and raised in Leme developed his own language to talk about…
Curinga’s CaipirinhaRio de Janeiro The counter of Récion Gama Filho is just over one meter wide and is located on the sidewalk of Rua Joaquim Silva, near the Arcos da Lapa. Dressed as a joker, with a hat and decorated T-shirt, he juggles with his improvised shaker. Meanwhile, he talks, sings, talks, laughs, talks, and…
Arnaldo’s TapiocaRio de Janeiro Arnaldo Ferreira de Melo, like all poor northeasterners from the interior, was raised on tapioca. But in Santa Quitéria, a town of almost 50 thousand inhabitants in the semi-arid region of Ceará, the boy, the youngest of six siblings, ate it stuffed with nothing but air. “It was difficult to find…
Savory Snacks’s Marques FamilyRio de Janeiro When he owned a small bar in the interior of Ceará, Edilson Marques knew well how to attract customers. He would spread dirt on the bar floor: “Napkins, cachaça, everything to give the impression that the place was bustling,” he says. As soon as he turned 18, he flew…
Deraldo and Vânia's Fried FishRio de Janeiro The flirtation between Deraldo and Vânia Cajaíba happened daily in the bus line at Praça Mauá, at night, when they both returned from work. There were winks from here, little smiles from there, until Deraldo gathered the courage to start a conversation. They talked, kissed, and in a…
Seu Batista's Sun-Dried Meat with CassavaRio de Janeiro João Batista da Silva, 62 years old, has eaten roasted lizard to satisfy his hunger, almost died in a flood, started working in the fields at the age of ten, sold trays of eggs from his window, taught himself photography, set up a studio, and ended up…
Adelaide's Sausage BreadRio de Janeiro Maria Adelaide Reis’ hands preserve tradition against time The history of an entire village in Northern Portugal is tied to the dough she produces and sells on Saturdays at the Portuguese festival of Cantinho das Concertinas. The Portuguese “folar,” a homemade bread filled with calabresa sausage, ham, and bacon, is…
