Rice Couscous by Cousins

Maceió

Rodolfo’s great-grandmother, Dona Pureza, used to make rice couscous, which has now traveled from the historical and tourist town of Penedo, the oldest city on the banks of the São Francisco River, to Maceió, 160 kilometers away. This delicacy, served with shredded sun-dried meat and coalho cheese, was sold in the main square of the small town by his great-grandmother, then his grandmother, aunts, mother, and now finally by Rodolfo himself in the capital. Today, he is responsible for maintaining the tradition alongside his cousin Gilvan at a trailer named “Carroça” (cart). Every day, Rodolfo prepares the cuscus “dough” in a process that involves washing, drying, and grinding the rice, which is then mixed grated dry coconut. He uses the coconut milk to moisten the cuscus after steaming it in the same steamer that belonged to his grandmother. Occasionally, he receives customers who have already tasted the cuscus in Penedo, including his great-grandmother Dona Pureza. “They say nothing has changed,” he says.

Where and When?

Praça Jornalista Denis Agra, Bairro Santo Eduardo

Wednesday to Sunday:

from 6:00 PM

Photos: Reynaldo Zangrandi /Text: Ines Garçoni