At the Kantuta Fair, also known as the Bolivian Fair, there are more than 90 stalls run by immigrants selling Bolivian and Peruvian food, handicrafts, and other products. Among them, one of the busiest stalls is owned by Dona Florencia and her daughter, Mirian. Customers are drawn by the enticing aroma and don’t mind waiting to try the salteña, oven-baked pastries filled with vegetables, meat, chicken, or pork. Dona Florencia arrived from Cochabamba over 50 years ago to work as a seamstress, and she stayed here. Today, the 75,000 Bolivians in São Paulo form the largest immigrant community in the city. From Cochabamba, she brought her four-year-old daughter and the recipe for salteñas. The most popular street food in Bolivia borrowed its name from Argentina: “salteña” refers to something from Salta, a city in the neighboring country. Perhaps this is because its creator was indeed a native of Salta who lived in Bolivia in the early 19th century. Although they resemble Argentine empanadas, they are juicier due to their hearty filling made with vegetables and cow foot broth. “I haven’t changed anything in the recipe,” assures Dona Florencia. “My compatriots say they are better than the ones in Bolivia!”